After twenty-three hours of long flights and layovers, I am finally in Vienna. It's amazing to me how familiar everything is, even after a year--I almost feel as if I had never left the city!
Just setting foot outside my apartment door was enough to trigger a host of memories. A small
Straßenfest, or "street festival" was taking place outside our building, and booths lined the streets offering Wurst, Leberkäse, and Semmelbrot. Across the street, the traditional green and red colors announced a Spar grocery store, and further up the road a small Turkish shop advertised cheap cell phones in the window. A quick jaunt downtown proved that the Stephansplatz also remained relatively unaltered; tourists shoved their way into the Stephansdom, attempting to avoid overly eager salesmen dressed in kitschy Mozart costumes, while the stench from horse manure lingered in the smaller surrounding alleys. As I said, not much has changed.
This is both Vienna's greatest strength and its greatest weakness. On the one hand, the city gives one the sense of being part of something larger than oneself--the feeling that, regardless of what you do or where you go, the city will go on just as it always has without you. In a certain way, the past almost feels present in Vienna--but then on the other hand, the ghosts of the past almost feel present, too. In such a city, it is practically impossible to feel ambivalent--one is either awestruck, or overwhelmed.